Lucky, as a Limey, to have been part of the Seeger vision I’m still – over a year on – sharing tales of the Hudson in pubs, bars and bus stops up and down the shires. No, I say, the War of Independence was – in their reckoning – a long time ago and yes, we have a great deal in common, though they seem to have cooked breakfasts every morning (with Dutch babies and spruce tip jelly) and they call porridge oatmeal.
But what about the Clearwater? Well, it’s a magnificent sloop. With the sun rising over the river, it’s sleek in silhouette, beautiful in the dawn mist, with nothing to distract you from the spectacle other than a chorus of crickets and the occasional plop of a fish breaking the surface. You give your labour gladly, sanding, oiling, painting, and no matter how often you hear the phrase ‘deck wash ’, contributing to Seeger’s legacy takes the edge off any chore, even munging. . Yes, working to maintain this iconic vessel fills you with pride. Yes, it’s weather-worn in places, but the planned restoration project will no doubt give it back all its former glory.
And those onboard? From the skipper to the co-ordinators, to Jake the cook, to the mates, to the deck hands, to the other volunteers, there’s the burning desire to make the world a better, fairer, cleaner, peace-loving place. And as an intellectual and cultural hub, it’s hard to beat, what with the crew’s love of Rembrandt, Seeger, L’Atalante, the banjo, the guitar, indie rock, coral reefs, sailing, indigenous people and the mighty river itself. It was all, in hindsight, camaraderie, shanties, filling meals and folksy music.
And as for the High School students, they were a delight. Glad to be away from the classroom for a sunny morning on the river, their enthusiasm and curiosity was heart-warming and, while not dissimilar to those I teach in England, they had about them an old-world courtesy which was charming.
As for the passengers, I’ll always remember their interest, openness and generosity: sharing kombuchas, supplementing my rations with tacos, granting me free access to the Metropolitan (what a museum!) and putting me straight about the state of the nation. Every other one had a Pete Seeger story to tell: ‘played alongside him, saw him putting up flyers in the local area, visited my / my kids’ school.’
And mention the Clearwater in NYC – as I did at every opportunity – and I was invariably met with a warm smile and a moment of happy reminiscing. It was, in summary, an amazing experience, and while the facilities may be ‘rustic’, as Jacob will warn you, it has me proselytising still to all and sundry.
By Stephen Bywater
Stephen volunteered aboard the Clearwater in 2025.
For almost sixty years, Clearwater has nurtured a deep and abiding love for the Hudson River because of the generosity of donors like you. Help us keep the Clearwater magic alive and the sloop sailing for the next generation.
